Vinous Reviews

Cowhorn 2016 Marsanne Roussanne, 91 points, $35

Limpid yellow. Mineral-accented melon and pear on the highly perfumed nose, joined by floral and ginger notes as the wine opens up. Juicy citrus and pit fruit flavors reveal hints of refreshingly bitter quinine and a touch of succulent herbs. Shows impressive depth as well as nerviness on the finish, which hangs on with strong, spicy persistence.

Cowhorn 2016 Viognier, 92 Points, $35

Pale gold. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe citrus and pit fruits while smoky mineral and orange zest nuances add vivacity. Juicy and focused on the palate, offering intense tangerine and nectarine flavors that tighten up slowly on the back half. Densely packed yet lively as well, delivering strong finishing thrust, resonating minerality and an impressively persistent honeysuckle note.

Cowhorn 2016 Spiral 36, 91 Points, $28

Vivid straw-yellow. Energetic aromas of orange zest, white peach and honeysuckle, along with a subtle overlay of dusty minerals. Dry and brisk on the palate, offering nicely concentrated citrus and pit fruit flavors and a touch of mintiness. Finishes with very good clarity, an echo of candied pear and a persistent floral quality.

Cowhorn 2013, Reserve Syrah 92 Points, $75 SOLD OUT

(50 percent new French oak) Deep bright-rimmed ruby. Pungent, expansive aromas of fresh dark berries, incense and pipe tobacco, along with a smoky mineral overtone and a hint of olive that builds in the glass. Juicy and seamless in texture, offering sweet black and blue fruit, spicecake and violet pastille flavors and a deeper suggestion of candied licorice. Closes with excellent clarity and spicy lift; a floral quality lingers on the very long, gently tannic finish. This Syrah is distinctly northern Rhône in style, and while it’s approachable now, it also has the material to reward a fair amount more patience.

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