The streets of Mexico
This year’s Top 100 marks key moment for American wine
Jon Bonné
December 2, 2013
2012 Cowhorn Spiral 36 Applegate Valley White ($28, 13.6%): Cal grads Bill and Barbara Steele migrated to southern Oregon to chase their wine dreams. Their ambitious biodynamically farmed project in Jacksonville has transcended curiosity to make some of the Northwest’s most ambitious Rhone-style wines. Here the plump pungency of Roussanne – think agave nectar – bolsters Viognier and Marsanne in an opulent, exotic mix: orange blossom, juicy lime, barley, fresh peach. A remarkable complexity on display.
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